Memories with my Moula over 50 glorious years. The smiling young one between bewe Moulas has witnessed the glorious and eventful 50 years. At the Shabab outing managed to evoke smile on Moula's radiant face, with a silly Chinese skit. At the Star Sporting Club outing got a walk the talk opportunity. Treasured memories.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Kathiyavad Zyaarat Tarvelouge

2,000 kms.
6 adults.
4 children.
1 intent.

Dua for a long and healthy life of our beloved Maula Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin Saheb (T.U.S.)!
We adjusted and readjusted our busy calendars. We scrambled our schedules. We prepared weeks in advance. We visited shopping lists. We revisited shopping malls. We packed till the last minute.

On the bright sunny morning of 10 October 2013, we converged at the Calcutta airport, coming in cars, metros and autos. And there would begin our journey that spanned 2,000 km, 19 tiny-to-small clusters, 6 ready-to-adjust adults and 4 not-so-ready-to-adjust children!

After an eventful flight trip marked by wailing kids, harried hostesses, ever-smiling parents and disgruntled co-passengers, we landed right into the heart of Gujarat – Ahmedabad. After putting our Gujarati speaking
skills to good use, we wangled a discount for our chariot – a shiny white Innova – that would soon take us
to Siddhpur and Palanpur, two small hamlets that we call our cradle and our real home.

After spending the night in stately mansions art-worked with ornate traditional designs, niches and cornices, expansive rooms and ‘pure’ silence, we woke up fresh as daisies just to be welcomed by our bigger chariot – a comfortable 16-seater that would afford us to walk over and have a conversation at the front seat and the children to walk, crawl, fly… whatever!

Day 1
We reached the Roza of Syedi Qazi Khan Saheb (Q.R.) in Siddhpur at a time when the sun was at its brightest best. Making full use of sunglasses and photo-chromatic glasses, we made our way to the Roza
and did sajdaa as Syedi Qazi Khan Saheb (Q.R.) was among the fortunate few to have seen Imam uz Zamaan in his dream. Syedi Qazi Khan Saheb (Q.R.) served Duat Kiraam (R.A.) during the tenure of Syedna Yusuf Najmuddin (R.A.), was appointed as Mukasir and was soon elevated to the position of Mazoon-e-Dawat.

After running a quick headcount, we proceeded to Selavi, which took us about one hour from Siddhpur. At Selavi we did zyaarat of Maulaya Mulla Nooh Bhai Saheb and Zaojate Mulla Nooh Bai Saheba (husband and wife). Interestingly by this time, we had happily carved out our respective places in the van while the children jumped from seat to seat and lap to lap!

With both professional as well as out of the closet photographers, we shot picturesque homes, mellow countryside and faces that could launch a thousand emotions.

We moved on to Dhinoj where we did zyaarat of Syedi Sheikh Dawood Sheikh Abdullah (A.Q.) and Sheikh Mohammed Hussain Sheikh Hasanali located in two quaint rooms. Despite the heat, the drinking water from the traditional clay matka could give competition to any modern day refrigerator. We quenched our thirst and boarded our bus which was some distance away on account of us having to navigate the narrow by-lanes by foot. This gave us tremendous opportunities to soak in mofussil life and immediately help ‘slowdown’ harried city dwellers like us.

We moved on to Denmal where we did zyaarat of Syedi Hasanfeer Shaheed (Q.R.) and his camel and parrot. The children listened wide eyed as we narrated the story of the camel and the parrot who stayed with Maula through much of his life.

We made our way to Radhanpur and reached in about two hours from Denmal where we did the zyaarat of Syedi Ali Bin Feerji Saheb and Syedi Abdul Rasul Bin Noorji Saheb. Radhanpur is ensconced in traditional homes with rusty locks, years of peeling paint and a maze of cobwebs. Despite this, the houses stood proud, a testimony to the history of the past and its nameless occupants. We had quick tea served by the ever helpful khidmatguzaars and weaved our way back to the van.

Day 2
In the dead of the night, we were jolted awake when our bus came to a halt at Bhuj, the epicenter of the massive Gujarat earthquake. We were brought to the Roza of Vali Shaksh Ibne Bawa Adam and we were told that several decades back, the locals saw divas (lamps) descending from the sky onto his qabr mubarak. Upon informing Syedna Taher Saifuddin (R.A.), the Saheb was named Bawa Adam. We also did zyaarat of Mulla Jafferji Dosaji, a Hafiz-e-Quraan. It was quite an experience doing zyaarat in these Rozas in a pitch black and completely silent night only awakened by the rustle of the leaves under our footsteps.

After an almost two hour ride, the scenic Mandvi Roza welcomed us. When we entered the Roza, we were cordially invited to warm dinner (at 2.30 am!) and ushered to our spacious rooms. We woke up fresh to the twitter of birds and did zyaarat of Syedna Noor Mohammed Nooruddin (R.A.). The splendid Roza mubarak emanated noor, much like the Saheb madfoon there. We also said our zohar asar namaaz in the small and scenic Masjid topped by an outstandingly large chandelier laced in traditional hand woodwork, which was brought from the Roza after it dislodged during the earthquake. The Vali Mulla at Mandvi narrated an amazing incident where Syedna Noor Mohammed Nooruddin (R.A.) took away a dain (debt) of Dawaat from a poor mumin who was then showered with barkaat and sacks of money.

We stayed overnight at Mandvi, visited the beach during sunset and also the grand Vijay Vilas Palace with umbrella like domes, cupolas, jharokhas and cusp Rajasthani arches. The palace has been the backdrop in several popular Hindi films and we were told that its descendent currently lives in Napean Sea Road, Mumbai!

Day 3
We packed our bags and left for Mundra, where we did zyaarat of Mulla Boodabhai Moosaji and Syeda
Rani Bai Saheba, the daughter of Syedna Ismail Badruddin (R.A.), madfoon in Jamnagar.

After an hour’s ride, we reached Anjar where we did zyaarat of Vali Shaksh Ismail Badruddin.
Unfortunately, we were not able to gather any history of the Saheb madfoon there.

We reached Halvad in the evening and performed zyaarat of Syedi Qazi Khan Shujauddin Saheb (Q.R.). We visited the magnificent 200 year old Masjid in the complex that was currently undergoing renovation.  The interesting part of the Masjid was the fact that a small flight of steps annexed to the right walls of the Masjid took one to the upper covered terrace for the ladies from where we could soak in the splendid views of a lake.

It was nearing maghrib when we reached Dhrangadhra. We opened the Masjid gates, flicked open the lights, arranged the rugs and said our namaaz. We walked a short way into the qabrastaan into the Rozas of Maulaya Masood Saheb and Maulaya Sheikh Gulamhussain Saheb, whose qabr mubarak we were told revealed itself from under the ground.

We reached Morbi late into the night, had quick dinner and directly retired to our rooms. We tried to sleep but could not get any! Early the next day we attended Eid ul Adha namaaz in the small Masjid anointed with a lovely courtyard and did zyaarat of Maulaya Raj Bin Maulaya Dawood (Q.R.) who mastered the art of weaving cloth and also taught a number of mumineen to do so. Renowned for his devotion, he had never missed a namaaz. However while weaving cloth one day, he thought of completing the little work left before proceeding for namaaz. On completion, he went to fetch water for wuzoo but instead of drawing water, he pulled out a bucket-full of precious stones. Not once but thrice he threw these gems back in the well in the hope of finding water. This occurrence immediately motivated Maulaya Raj (Q.R.) to seek pardon for his complacence and with the water drawn out of the well the fourth time, he could say his namaaz on time. We even proceeded to Maulaya’s makaan (occupied by a family today), his 600 year old Masjid and drank shifa nu pani pulled out from his well.

The son of Maulaya Raj (Q.R.), Maulaya Mulla Dawood Bin Maulaya Raj (Q.R.) is madfoon in the Roza as
well, which also houses the qabr mubarak of Bibi Zulekha Aisaheba, wife of Maulaya Raj Bin Maulaya Dawood (Q.R.). We also did zyaarat of Sayeda Fazelat Kulsum Baisaheba.

The Taj Masjid in Morbi was picturesque both from inside and outside. We also visited the hanging bridge which rested on swaying pylons. To reach the bridge, we went through the magnificently carved residence of the royalty of Darbargarh, which is to be converted into a heritage hotel.

We headed to Wakaner thereafter and reached by about noon and were immediately served Eid lunch. While having food, the saheb there told us that Moulai Looqmanji (Q.S.) often travelled to Wakaner from Ujjain for his chana business and gave away most of the profits for the wellbeing of the community. Moulai Looqmanji (Q.S.) was also known to distribute chana to patients suffering from tuberculosis, who eventually recovered from their ailment. In fact there was shifa in his chana and he was often looked up to as a hakeem. We said our zohar asar namaaz at the small Mohammedi Masjid and proceeded further.

We reached Pardhari at about 5 in the evening and did zyaarat of Maulaya Ameenji Shaheed. Unfortunately there was very little information about the Saheb madfoon there. Interestingly, we came across an old picture of Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin (T.U.S.) at the Roza at Pardhari.

We headed off to Dhrol and reached just before the sun was about to disappear over the horizon. We dashed in a 500-m dense stretch that needed to be crossed while reaching the Roza. We jumped over puddles and reached the mazaar of Gunje Shaheed. Since it was getting close to maghrib, we could not stay longer to see the nearby Masjid, did zyaarat and hurried out. Unfortunately, not much history was made available to us on this Saheb either.

We reached Jamnagar at about 7 in the evening, checked into our rooms and did quick zyaarat with the intent of coming back the next day.

Day 4
We crossed the road that separated the Roza from the musafirkhana and after a quick breakfast hurried off to do zyaarat. We did the zyaarat of Syedna Ismail Badruddin (R.A.), Syedna Moosa Kalimuddin, Syedna Abdul Tayyeb Zakiuddin (R.A.) and Syedna Ismail Badruddin (R.A.). Though the Roza was under renovation, the artful zari work permitted soft sunshine to filter into the Rozas, while creating a charming effect.

We proceeded to Kalavad in which we did the zyaarat of Moosaji Hasanji, Hasanji Dawoodbhai and Ismailbhai Khan Bhai (all Sayyedi Sahebo). The mumineen houses in Kalavad looked comfortably small and shared common walls, reflecting the strong bonds of their residents. We could peep through and see many of the elderly seeped into tilawaat with a small scarf over their heads.

We went ahead to Ganipir where we did the zyaarat of Maulaya Ganipir. We said zohar asar namaaz in the quaint Masjid and had niyaaz lunch in the hall. The Saheb in-charge told us that Maulaya Ganipir used to keep aside the profits he made out of his bangles business for sadqua and zakaat first and foremost. He soon befriended somebody and kept his whole stock of bangles in that person’s house. At night, the person frantically called Maulaya Ganipir and told him that the house had caught fire and his stock would completely burn down. Maulaya Ganipir was calm and said that Allah would protect his stock. This turned out to be real as Maulaya Ganipir’s stock of bangles was safe while the whole house had burnt down. However the threads that bound the bangles were reduced to ashes. Maulaya Ganipir then revealed that he had picked up the threads from the ground and as such, had not paid zakaat on them. And hence it had caught fire!

Day 5 and 6
We spent two wonderful days spent at Sasan Gir. Our resort, Shaan-E-Gir was located in the core forest area. We met with pitch darkness, absolute silence and breathtaking surroundings. One could even hear a bullock cart trundling 2 km away. Soon however, the jungle came alive with the sounds of the night.

We woke up at about 3.30 in the dead of the morning and walked almost a kilometre to reach the motorbike
parked by one of the attendants with the intent of getting permits for the morning jeep ride. With much trepidation we walked through the jungle with the only light shone by our LED torch. It was an experience worth living for! As we reached Sinh Sadan, we saw a serpentine queue waiting for permits to enter the forest. We stood for almost four hours when we were finally riding in our jeeps on the second session of the first day of the season. We set off in two Gypsies but unfortunately could not spot a lion. We did so however at the Gir Interpretation Zone!

Day 7
We started from Gir at about 12 pm and reached Amreli late noon to the Roza of Maulaya Jafferji Saheb. The intricately carved white Roza looked resplendent in a serrated sky. We were told that Maulaya Jafferji Saheb was renowned for capturing evil spirits (jinhs) and was called by Syedna Abdeali Saifuddin for ‘clearing’ the Dhobi Ghat area in Surat for the purpose of building the Jamea. Maulaya Jafferji Saheb was successful in doing so. However he found it very difficult to capture a powerful jinh but finally managed to do so and trapped it inside a bottle and kept it in his home with the intent of doing dafan later. When Maulaya Jafferji Saheb was in prayers, someone opened the bottle, the jinh was out and killed Maulaya Jafferji Saheb.

We think it was a coincidence when we spotted several empty soda bottles just outside the Roza!

We proceeded to Ranpur and reached at about 9 pm and did the zyaarat of Syedi Vamaulaya Sheikh Feer Shaheed, Syedi Hasan Ibne Dawood, Syedi Miyaji Ibne Dawood, Maulaya Daroos Khan Saheb and Maulaya Tarakhpeer Saheb. The interesting incident about Maulaya Tarakhpeer Saheb is that the Saheb’s qabr mubarak became visible one feet from under a large tree and then rose six feet. It was said that divas used to descend from the sky at Maulaya Tarakhpeer Saheb qabr mubarak and distinguish at Syedi Vamaulaya Sheikh Feer Shaheed’s qabr mubarak. We had dinner and left for Ahmedabad.

Day 8
We reached Ahmedabad at about 2 am the next morning and were immediately offered rooms and dinner. We retired into our rooms with the intent of getting up fresh and early.

We had a quick breakfast and headed to Qutbi Mazaar, the resting place of the great Syedna Qutubkhan Qutbuddin Shaheed Bin Syedna Dawood Qutubshah (R.A.) and others. We also did the zyaarat right through the qabrastan of Syedna Jalal Shamshuddin bin Maula Hasan (R.A.), Syedna Dawood Bin Qutub Shah Burhanuddin (R.A.), Syedna Sheikh Adam Safyuddin Bin Miya Taiyyeb Shah (R.A.), Syedna Abdul Taiyeb Zakiuddin Bin Syedna Dawood Bin Qutub Shah (R.A.), Syedna Kasim Khan Zainuddin Bin Maula Feer (R.A.), Syedna Feerkhan Shujauddin Bin Ahmed Bin Malekshah (R.A.), Syedna Abdul Husain Husamuddin Bin Syedna Tayeb Zainuddin (R.A.), Moulai Adam Bin Moulaya Suleman Bin Masood (Q.S.), Syedi Shaikhadam Safiyuddin (Q.S.) and Syedi Aminji Bin Jalal (Q.S.), among several others.

As we packed our luggage into the auto to move back to the Ahmedabad airport in the afternoon of 18 October 2013, we realised three important things:

1. Our aqueeda had strengthened multifold as we did zyaarat of many Doats and Hudud Fozola and came to know their history, though a fraction of it, and their key mojizas
2. Our aqueeda had strengthened on the belief that it was these Sahebs who had called us to their darbars and we offer hundreds of sajedahs in acknowledgement
3. Our aqueeda had strengthened that Allah will grant our beloved Maula Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin (T.U.S.) and his Mansoos Syedi Aaliquadr Mufaddal Bhaisaheb Saifuddin (T.U.S.) a very long and healthy life.


Group members:
Mustafa Zavery (‘perceived’ group leader)
Sehrebanu Zavery
Fatema Zavery
Sakina Zavery
Ibrahim Lodhgar
Fatema Lodhgar
Insia Lodhgar
Adnan Hamid
Umaima Hamid
Arva Hamid
And yes, our driver whose name we forgot to ask!

Written by Adnan Hamid, who can be reached on + 91 98301 32962 

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